So I finally got it together. Finished my appointments early, ditched my run, turned off my phone and went for a surf on Tuesday.
I had looked at conditions early on in the day as I had my weekly meeting with my Muizenberg team and it looked super fun. There was little wind with a pushing tide though at the time so perhaps I should have known better.
Who cares though. I haven’t surfed much this whole year and my barren spell can only potentially be matched by my long suffering drought whilst working in London many years ago. I won’t include the occasional weekend rush to Cornwall as it never resulted in epic conditions.
So I arrived at the Berg at 6pm with my 5’10 fish that I use now when I am finding my surfing fitness. The design is flat with a little rocker in the nose and tail, boxy rails and plenty of width. I checked conditions there was a breezy contour blowing across the beach. There were plenty of people out but no one out far. Conditions had turned into a paddle fest with plenty of chop. Time to make the best of it.
I paddled out and it wasn’t long until I was sitting on my lonesome looking across at Baileys Cottage. There was plenty of swell with the occasional overhead set it was just very lumpy and inconsistent. My first wave was a wedgy kind of wave that was a quick take off and I managed to get a turn off. Nothing special but it was good to get moving.
I was only out for about 40 minutes as conditions deteriorated and it got late. Although Neptune was kind enough to throw me a nice overhead set wave that doubled up and then opened up nicely so that I was able to tuck in and get covered up for what felt like a few seconds but was probably more like a second. It definitely got me amped being in that quiet space as I watched the wave wrap itself around me and felt at complete peace. It reminded me what I had been missing out on.
I caught a couple of little runners on my backhand and worked through a couple of floaters, carves and roundhouse cutbacks trying to get my timing and balance back. Although the conditions were typical cross shore Berg I didn’t care I was on my own having the time of my life.
I got back to the car with a broad grin and wondered why I had left it so long. It won’t be as long until my next surf that’s for darn sure.
See you out there. I’ll be the frothing old guy just stoked to be back in the water.